Diving into the enchanting world of love jewelry, my journey began with a thoughtful gift from Hunter: the book “Power of Love” by Beatriz Chandour-Sampson. It opened my eyes to the intimate connections that jewelry fosters between the giver and the receiver, a recurring motif that captivated me throughout. Inspired, I delved deeper, uncovering treasures and stories that I’m eager to share with you.

In this blog, I'll not only highlight some of my favorite discoveries but also provide a glimpse into the historical backdrop of each era, offering a sense of time and place that enriches these stories of affection.

While much of love jewelry traditionally symbolizes marriage and betrothal, reflecting significant life milestones, my curiosity led me beyond these conventional narratives. I sought out pieces that celebrate love in its many forms, beyond the bonds of matrimony.

This exploration turned into a delightful journey, one I’m thrilled to take you on.

18th Century: Sentimentality and Romanticism 

The 18^th century saw a flourishing of art, culture and jewelry design that reflected the changing views on love, marriage and personal expression. There was a surge of sentimentality in love jewelry with designs of deep romantic connection and relationships. Jewelry pieces such as lockets, miniatures, and of course rings were often personalized with their lovers’ portraits, initials and hair. This served as intimate tokens of love and remembrance. Popular symbols at that time were heart motifs, clasped hands and doves.

Lover’s Eye portraits originated in the late 1700’s after The Prince of Wales, the future George IV, gifted a miniature of his right eye to Maria Ann Fitzherbert. He became infatuated with the widow and sought to have her as his mistress. As Maria was Catholic and refused to be a mistress. They were wed in secret and at the ceremony Maria gifted The Prince of Wales a portrait of her eye in return. Lover’s eye jewelry spread across Europe and continued well into the 19^th Century. Gifting these miniature portraits were a way to maintain the secrecy of a forbidden lover or romance.  

An example of a Lover's Eye Portrait from a similar time. https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-mysterious-history-lovers-eye-jewelry

19th Century: Victorian Emotionalism and Symbolism

The 19^th Century’s love jewelry reflects the complexity of the era’s social mores, technological advances and artistic preferences, offering a fascinating lens through which to view the period’s cultural values and emotional expressions.  The Victorian Era, meaning the reign of Queen Victoria from 1837-1901 profoundly influenced jewelry design, characterized by deep sentimentality and rich symbolism. The queen’s love for her husband, Prince Albert, set the tone for romanticism and mourning that was widely emulated.

Victorians loved their flowers. There were so many pieces of jewelry from this time with different arrangements of flowers and their secret “not so secret” meanings. Many flowers that were featured were roses, pansies and forget-me-nots. Along with flowers and their meaning, gemstones also had hidden meanings. Acrostic jewelry featured hidden love messages and poems spelled out using the initial of the specific gemstone. For instance, this bracelet features amethyst, morganite, opal, uvite and ruby; spelling out the message “amour”. It was known that Napoleon gave acrostic jewelry to his family as wedding and birthday gifts.  

Acrostic bracelet with the initials of the gemstones spelling out "amour" https://www.chaumet.com/une-education-sentimentale/pieces-historiques-en.html

You can’t talk about the 19^th Century love jewelry without mentioning Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Besides all the beautiful wedding jewelry and love tokens they exchanged, I found one piece the most fascinating. Prince Albert presented Queen Victoria with this gold charm bracelet three days after the birth of their first child, Princess Victoria. At the birth of each of their remaining eight children a charm was added, engraved with the date and contained a lock of the child’s hair. I am struck by how modern the charm bracelet looks. Here’s to classic style never going out of trend.

Queen Victoria's charm bracelet with lockets containing her children's hair https://www.rct.uk/collection/65293/bracelet

20th Century and Beyond: Modernism and Customization 

Throughout the 20th century, jewelry trends, including those in love jewelry, mirrored the era's significant social shifts, technological progress, and evolving artistic movements. Starting with the Edwardian era's intricate, romantic designs, the century moved to the Art Deco period's bold geometric shapes and vibrant colors, reflecting modernity and a departure from tradition. Post-World War II trends favored minimalism in love tokens, emphasizing streamlined forms and the inherent beauty of materials, such as the popularization of simple yet elegant solitaire diamond engagement rings. As the century progressed, love jewelry oscillated between bold, experimental styles and a resurgence of traditional motifs, influenced by pop culture. The late 20th century's technological boom introduced a diversity of materials and techniques, leading to a fusion of styles that blended historic sentiments with contemporary flair in expressions of romance and commitment.

In the 1930’s, the British royal family was in upheaval. The Prince of Wales, future King Edward VIII was in a sensational romance with a twice- divorced American socialite, Wallis Simpson. This romance would lead to a serious love affair that led to the abdication of Edward VIII. Throughout their marriage numerous jewelry pieces were given to Wallis Simpson. The Duke of Winsor’s wish was after her death all her jewelry would be dismantled because he felt the jewelry was too private for anyone else to have. Unfortunately, his wish was not respected and all her jewelry was sold at auction a year after she died in 1987. 

A snapshot of the Duke and Duchess of Winsor with examples of the Duchess's jewelry collection. https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/celebrated-collections-at-sothebys

Two pieces from the 20^th Century that caught my eye were these King and Queen of Hearts clip brooches and the Love Bangle both from Cartier. The King and Queen of Hearts clip brooches were made in 1938 and feature a more lighthearted approach to jewelry design. These brooches would have been worn by a couple as a sign of their affection for each other. The King and Queen of Hearts represent spring and obviously love. These brooches are filled with symbols of love, such as the rose the Queen holds, the heart resting along her cheek and the heart the King pierces through with his sword.  

King and Queen of Hearts Clip Brooches from Cartier https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/magnificent-jewels-and-noble-jewels-part-i/cartier-pair-of-enamel-and-diamond-clips-king-of

The “Love Bangle” created in 1969 by Cartier, one of their most popular designs. I have seen these everywhere but I was unaware of the origins of the original piece. This design fastened around the wrist by screws! Actual screws. The bracelet came with a solid gold screwdriver that could be worn as a necklace by their partner. The bracelet was nearly impossible to put it on by yourself and intended to be acquired as a gift for a true love. This bracelet was designed for both men and women.

"Love Bangle" designed by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier https://www.cartier.com/en-us/jewelry/bracelets/love-bracelet-B6067517.html

Cordate Noir: New Collection from RMJ

As we journey through the rich tapestry of love jewelry's past, from the intricate sentimentality of the 18th century to the bold expressions of the 20th century, we see the heart motif enduring as a universal symbol of love. Yet, history is not just to be observed but also to inspire the present. In this spirit, my own sterling silver heart jewelry collection pays homage to these timeless symbols, reimagining them with a modern twist that mirrors today's desires for simplicity and edge.

The use of black jet, a material historically linked to mourning, takes on a new life in my designs. While acknowledging its somber roots, I chose black jet for its sleek, contemporary appeal and the versatility it brings. Black, a color I personally love for its elegance and adaptability, transforms the traditional heart motif into a statement of modern sophistication. My collection is designed not for mourning but for celebrating love's dynamic nature in today's world — cool, edgy, and endlessly versatile.

This fusion of historical sentiment and modern design reflects a broader trend in love jewelry: the evolution of symbols to meet the changing tastes and values of their times. Just as the heart motif has been reinterpreted over the centuries, my collection invites you to embrace love's legacy through a lens that is distinctly now. It's a celebration of love that's as multifaceted and enduring as the heart itself, designed for those who cherish tradition yet dare to stand out.

See Collection Here